The framework of the hedgerow is perpendicular to the ground, which is why it is also referred to as a "stand." It comes in various forms, such as single-arm fences, double-arm fences, and V-shaped fences. This article focuses primarily on the single-arm fence design.
A single-arm fence is known for its simple construction and material efficiency. It promotes good air circulation and light penetration, which helps improve berry quality. Additionally, it supports mechanized farming, saving both time and labor. When using a natural fan shape, early high yields are more likely to be achieved.
First, selecting an appropriate site is crucial. Grapes are highly adaptable to different climates and soils, but they do not thrive in swamps, heavy alkali soils, or heavy clay. As long as the soil pH is between 4 and 9, good harvests can be expected. However, it’s best to choose a slightly acidic location with convenient transportation, flat terrain, and proper drainage and irrigation systems.
Second, soil improvement is essential. If the selected land isn’t ideal, it can still be transformed. Uneven areas should be leveled as much as possible. For overly acidic soils, lime can be applied to reduce acidity. In heavily alkaline areas, digging ditches and raising the planting beds within them can help lower the alkalinity through watering and natural erosion.
Third, planning field roads is important for efficient farming operations. Fertilizers and harvested fruits need to be transported, so roads must be well-organized. A general production road should be about 4 meters wide, while roads for large vehicles like tractors should be 5–6 meters wide. The length of grape rows is typically around 60–70 meters, and should not exceed 80 meters to avoid production difficulties.
Fourth, the orientation of the vineyard should be carefully considered. Ideally, the rows should run from north to south. In mountainous areas where this is not possible, an east-west orientation is acceptable.
Fifth, determining the row and plant spacing is critical. Too narrow spacing hinders air and light flow, making it hard to produce high-quality fruit. Too wide spacing wastes land and delays early harvests. Based on field studies in Shandong, Henan, Xinjiang, Guangxi, Jiangxi, and Beijing, along with over 20 years of research, it has been found that in cold-proof areas without trellises, a row spacing of 1.7 meters and plant spacing of 0.8 meters, or 1.5 meters by 0.9 meters, is optimal, allowing for 500 plants per acre. In colder regions, a 2-meter row spacing with 0.8-meter plant spacing, accommodating 420 plants per acre, is recommended.
Sixth, digging planting trenches is an important step. Trenches should be 60 cm deep. At the bottom, place a layer of weeds and straw, then mix 5,000 kg of organic fertilizer with topsoil. Add 100 kg of superphosphate, fill the trench completely, compact the soil, and water it. Once the soil is loose, level the surface and prepare for planting.
Seventh, installing posts is necessary. The height of the post depends on the row spacing. For a 1.7-meter row, the total post length is 2.2 meters, with 0.5 meters buried underground. For a 1.5-meter row, the post is 2 meters long, with 0.5 meters buried. The distance between posts varies depending on the area—about 6 meters in storm-prone regions, and 7–8 meters elsewhere. Posts must be installed straight and firm. Using a cement post, dimensions of 6 cm by 12 cm are common, and 3–4 pieces of 3.3 mm cold-drawn wire should be embedded during construction.
Eighth, pulling wires is an essential part of the structure. Typically, three wires are used. The first wire is placed 60 cm above the ground, and the remaining two are spaced evenly above the column. Before pulling the wires, tension stones are fixed at both ends of the row. Use a tensioner to tighten the wires and secure them tightly on each post.
Ninth, planting seedlings is best done before winter (before the ground freezes). This allows new roots to develop during the cold season. Seedlings planted in winter grow vigorously and can reach their peak yield the following year. If planting in spring, the earlier the better. After planting, water thoroughly and cover the seedlings with plastic mulch, leaving the top exposed. The soil layer over the seedlings should be 3–4 cm thick. For summer planting, use last year’s stored seedlings, ideally between May and early July.
Tenth, choosing the right tree form is key. The author recommends the natural fan shape. In the first year, 4–6 shoots are produced, and when they reach about 80 cm, the central shoot is pruned to 50–60 cm to encourage lateral growth. After the third wire, any auxiliary shoots are left with 3–5 leaves and repeatedly pruned. During winter pruning, leave 3–4 branches per plant, each about 70 cm tall. In the second year, the number of shoots varies by variety, and a yield of around 2,000 kg per mu is achievable. For example, if each shoot weighs about 500 grams, leaving 8 shoots per plant can result in a good harvest.
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