The frame of the hedgerow is perpendicular to the ground, which is why it's also known as a "stand." It comes in various forms such as single-arm, double-arm, and V-shaped fences. The focus of this article is on the single-arm fence.
A single-arm fence is simple to construct and uses fewer materials. It promotes better air circulation and sunlight exposure, which helps improve berry quality. Additionally, it supports mechanized farming, saving time and labor. If a natural fan shape is used, early high yields are more likely.
First, selecting a suitable site is essential. Grapes are adaptable to different climates and soils, but they thrive best when the soil pH is between 4 and 9. Avoid swampy, highly saline, or heavy clay areas. It's best to choose a slightly acidic site with good transportation access, flat terrain, and proper drainage and irrigation systems.
Second, soil improvement is necessary if the selected area isn't ideal. Uneven land should be leveled as much as possible. For overly acidic soil, lime can be added to reduce acidity. In heavily alkaline areas, digging ditches and raising the planting beds can help lower the alkalinity through watering and rain erosion.
Third, planning field roads is crucial for efficient farm operations. Production roads should be about 4 meters wide, while roads for larger vehicles like tractors need to be 5–6 meters wide. The length of the grape rows is usually 60–70 meters, not exceeding 80 meters, as longer rows can complicate management.
Fourth, orientation plays an important role. Grapevines grow best when oriented from north to south. On hilly land, where this isn't possible, an east-west layout is acceptable.
Fifth, determining the row and plant spacing is critical. Too narrow spacing hinders ventilation and light, reducing fruit quality. Too wide spacing wastes land and delays early production. Based on research from Shandong, Henan, Xinjiang, Guangxi, Jiangxi, and Beijing, along with our institute’s trials over 20 years, we recommend: in cold-proof areas without trellises, a row spacing of 1.7 m and plant spacing of 0.8 m, or 1.5 m row spacing with 0.9 m plant spacing, totaling around 500 plants per acre. In buried cold areas, a 2 m by 0.8 m spacing with 420 plants per acre is ideal.
Sixth, digging planting trenches is important. Trenches should be 60 cm deep. Place a layer of weeds and straw at the bottom, then mix in 5,000 kg of organic fertilizer with topsoil. Add 100 kg of superphosphate, fill the trench, compact the soil, and water thoroughly. Once the soil settles, level the surface and prepare for planting.
Seventh, installing posts depends on the row spacing. For 1.7 m spacing, the post should be 2.2 m long, with 0.5 m buried underground. For 1.5 m spacing, the post is 2 m long, with 0.5 m underground. The distance between posts should be around 6 m in storm-prone areas and 7–8 m elsewhere. Posts must be straight and sturdy. A concrete post with dimensions 6 cm x 12 cm is recommended, and 3–4 3.3 mm cold-drawn wires should be embedded during construction.
Eighth, installing wires is essential. Three wires are typically used. The first wire is placed 60 cm above the ground, and the remaining two are spaced evenly above that. Before tightening, anchor the ends with stones. Use a tensioner to secure the wires tightly to each post.
Ninth, planting seedlings should be done before winter, ideally before the ground freezes. This allows new roots to develop during the dormant season. Seedlings planted in winter will grow well and reach full development by the second year. If planting in spring is unavoidable, do it as early as possible. After planting, water thoroughly and cover the base with plastic mulch, leaving the top part exposed. The soil covering the seedling should be 3–4 cm thick. For summer planting, use last year's stored seedlings, preferably between May and July.
Tenth, selecting the right vine shape is key. The author recommends a natural fan shape. New shoots should be pruned to 4–6 per plant, with the main shoot left at 50–60 cm to encourage strong growth. After reaching the third wire, side shoots are allowed to grow, leaving 3–5 leaves per shoot and pruning regularly. During winter, leave 3–4 branches per plant, each about 70 cm tall. In the second year, the number of shoots varies by variety, aiming for a yield of 2000 kg per mu. For example, if each spike weighs about 500 grams, leaving 8 spikes per plant is ideal.
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