The production of EM strain fermentation broth begins with the activation of bacterial species. To start, 10 grams of EM bacteria are combined with 0.1 kg of brown sugar and 1 kg of water. The brown sugar is first dissolved in warm water (heated to 100°C), then the mixture is heated for an additional 5 minutes. After cooling to 40°C, the EM culture is added. The mixture is then fermented at a temperature between 35°C and 40°C for 3 to 5 days, with the container opened periodically. A successful batch will have a sweet and sour aroma, and it can be used as a liquid starter culture.
Next, the stock solution is prepared by adding the activated liquid culture to a secondary fermenter. The ratio is 1:10 (fermentation broth to water), along with 10% sterile sweet water, 1% amino acid solution, and maintained at a temperature of 35–40°C. This second-stage fermentation lasts for 5 to 7 days. The final product should have a pleasant sweet and sour smell, a pH between 4.0 and 5.0, and a viable cell count of at least 10 billion per milliliter.
When using an EM strain fermentation bed, it's common to spray a certain amount of the fermentation broth onto the bed to enhance degradation efficiency. The broth helps regulate microbial activity in the soil environment. If microbial activity declines, the broth can be diluted and sprayed on the surface to speed up the breakdown of waste. In cases where there is a lot of pig manure, spreading a small amount of the broth over the area can help decompose the waste more effectively. Proper use of these active agents plays a key role in maintaining the effectiveness of the fermentation bed. There are many commercial products available, and the best one should be selected based on the specific conditions of the bed.
The main material used in the fermentation bed consists of organic litter, primarily wood chips, which make up about 90% of the mix. The remaining 10% includes clean soil (without chemical fertilizers) and a small amount of coarse salt. The total depth of the bedding is typically around 90 cm. For a 25 m² pig house, approximately 3,750 kg of material is needed. If conditions allow, the first layer can be 30–40 cm deep, followed by sawdust, or if sawdust is limited, corn straw or rice husks can be used instead. Soil makes up 10% of the total material, around 415 kg, while salt accounts for 0.3%, about 12 kg. Microorganisms are added at 2 kg per square meter, totaling 50 kg. Water is added at 1,000 kg, along with 8 kg of nutrient solution, which may include EM strain broth, animal amino acids, and rice vinegar.
Mixing the original soil microorganisms with rice bran and sawdust in the right proportions, along with the addition of nutrients and amino acids, ensures the moisture content reaches 60%, promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria. Adding a small amount of distiller’s grains, charred chaff, or ash can further improve the process. After 2 to 4 days of fermentation, the organic litter is ready for use. Once set up, the fermentation bed does not need to be replaced for 10 to 20 years, making it a long-term, cost-effective solution.
The construction of pig houses for fermentation beds is also important. These structures are usually built based on existing facilities, with a focus on proper orientation, lighting, and ventilation. Ideally, the pig house should face south, with windows on the north and south sides for good airflow. Each pig requires about 1.2 to 1.5 m² of space to ensure optimal fermentation. The walls are typically 3 meters high, and the roof is 4.5 meters tall, with a central window that allows sunlight to fully illuminate the bed. This helps maintain ideal conditions for microbial growth. Automatic feeding and watering systems are installed on the north and south sides respectively, reducing odors and fly problems. Greenhouses can also be used, offering better climate control and lower costs.
Fermentation beds can be either underground or above-ground, depending on local conditions. In areas with high groundwater levels, underground beds are preferred, while in drier regions, above-ground beds work well. Underground beds require digging 90–100 cm deep and filling them with organic litter. Pigs can then move freely within the bed. Above-ground beds are built on the surface, filled with the same organic material. These environments allow pigs to behave naturally, improving their health and growth.
Managing a fermentation bed is similar to traditional pig farming, but there are some unique considerations. Overcrowding can reduce the bed's effectiveness, so each pig should have at least 1.2–1.5 m². The bed must remain moist, as dry conditions can harm both microbes and pigs. Regular spraying of the active agent helps maintain humidity. Parasites and pests must be controlled to prevent contamination. Monitoring microbial activity is essential, and if needed, more active agents can be added. When the sawdust level drops, microorganisms and nutrients should be replenished. Pigs should be encouraged to turn over the bedding, and feed portions should be kept at 80% of the usual amount. Pigs tend to defecate in fixed spots, so any piles can be buried. Humidity must stay around 60%, and vents should be opened if it gets too wet. Chemicals and antibiotics should never be used, as they can harm the microbial community.
After layering sawdust, soil, and microorganisms, salt, water, and nutrient solution are sprayed in. Moisture should be adjusted to 65%. Spraying starts after half the material is in place. Once the bed is filled and pigs are introduced, the odor disappears naturally within a few days due to microbial action. Flies and cockroaches no longer reproduce. After 2–3 months, the lower layers begin to decompose, and the middle turns white, indicating strong microbial activity. The temperature can rise to 40–50°C, and the fermented manure becomes a natural food source for the pigs.
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