The pruning of the apricot tree in the greenhouse is mainly the extension branch of the short main branch and the lateral branch, which promotes the branching, increases the branch amount and maintains the extension of the main lateral branch. After the apricot tree buckle shed, when the new shoots reach 15 to 20 centimeters in length, they are picked up in time to prevent overgrowth and affect the light.
The long fruiting branches of young apricot trees are rarely fruit set and should be cut to about 1/3 so that they can be transformed into fruiting branches. Trimming should be light and should not be heavy, and sparse branches should be minimized to facilitate early high yields. Multiple summer trimming methods such as pulling branches and topping can be used to reduce the amount of trimming, which is beneficial to the cultivation of results and results.
Apricot trees are weak in hair extension, and pruning only stimulates 2 to 3 buds under the cut, and the amount of pruning is appropriate to cut 1/2 to 1/4 of annual branches. Grasp the principle of "bare cuts, cut twigs, cut long branches, cut short cuts". When the base thickness of branches is about 1 cm, it can be cut 1/2 to 1/3, when the thickness is 1.2 to 1.5 centimeters, cut to 1/3 to 1/4, and when the base thickness is greater than 1.6 centimeters, it should not be cut. Slow release. For extension branches with secondary branches, the height of the secondary branches can be visualized, either at the front or at the back. For non-bone branches, in addition to timely sparse erection competition branches, the rest are given lighter and shorter cuts to promote the formation of fruit branches or fruiting branches. Some saplings with strong erection and vigorous tree vigor often have more upright shoots on the back of the main branch. The elders can reach more than 1 meter. Flower buds can also be formed on the saplings, but generally they will not result. Those who are competitors to this kind of branch except the main lateral branch must be removed, and the rest should be light and short.
In general, the apricot tree in the greenhouse mainly has a cup-shaped and spindle-shaped tree. The following two types of tree pruning methods are described as follows: 1 cup shape. After the seedlings are planted, they are dried at 50-60 cm. After the seedlings have survived, the anvil buds and excess sprouts are promptly removed. When the buds grow to 10 cm, pick up the hearts and trigger the auxiliary shoots. Three azimuths with good azimuth were selected as the main branch of the first grade. When the main branch of the first grade was 15-20 cm long, 2 hearts were picked. From the second tip of the primary branch of the primary branch, two secondary shoots with symmetrical growth were selected as the secondary primary branch, and when the secondary branch was grown to 20 cm, the third picking was performed. From the secondary tip of the secondary main branch, two symmetrical primary branches are selected. Finally, a cup shape of 12 three-stage main branches is formed. 2 spindle shape. After fixing, 4 to 5 cm away from the seedling, the poles are tied to prevent skew. The first tip was strong and it served as the central leader. The main stem was within 10 cm of the ground and all germinated. More than 10 cm of new shoots, choose 5 to 6 as the main branch. When the central leadership shoots up to 50-60 centimeters, it picks up its heart. After topping, 3 to 4 main branches were selected from the new shoots. The same year in the Central Committee, the election also leaves 8 to 10 main leaves selected. In the two years, 18 to 20 main branches were selected. When the central stem was 2 meters high, it was a joy to fall. In the year of colonization, except for the central trunk, the main branch was not pruned, but when it was 20 to 30 centimeters in length, the opening angle should be 70 to 80 degrees. In the following year, after harvesting, pruning was performed for the second time. The central stem was cut to 50-60 cm and the main branch was cut to 10-15 cm. In this way, two lateral branches can germinate on one main branch. After the third year, the main branch was trimmed, leaving weak and strong, and the strong branch was cut off by 10 to 15 centimeters. Two new shoots can also be made. After the results, the same weaknesses will be retained, and the branch groups will be renewed each year to remove the bald trees at the back, which will help maintain the advantages of the Central Dryness. For the main branch results sagging, should hang branch, improve wind and light conditions.
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